In the last days of June 1793, John Macdonell and two partners shifted cargo out of their canoe and moved their belongings into an express canoe, with more paddlers so as to travel as fast as possible to the rendezvous. Leaving the remaining crew to transport extra cargo with fewer men.
They arrived at Michilimackinac a few days later, where they spent a companionable day or so. Then they hustled on to the rendezvous in Grand Portage where important company decisions would be made. This is the fifth part in the series. See the bottom of this post for links to the earlier ones.
On Lake Superior, they paddle on still water (if those waters are ever still) and can make 50-75 miles per day. But they face harsh winds and storms and confusing fog.
Sunday 30th ~ Arrived at the Sault St. Mary’s. The only settlements are on the South shore of the straits … at the bottom of a large Rapid which makes us carry our goods a mile to their head … Vast numbers of white fish are taken, here, of an excellent quality many of which are salted and sent to Mackinac & Detroit where they ought to sell well to bear the expense and repay the export, for salt sells at the Sault for 1/8 p lbs.
July 2nd ~ We left the hospitable roof of Mons Nolin who escorted us to the western end of the portage where we pitched our tent and finished the Madeira that remained in our care. … Lemoine remains here to shift for himself — stopped at point aux Pins where two leagues above the Sault we found Mr Nelson building a vessel for the North West Company to navigate the Lake Superior and to be called the Otter. She is to be launched shortly. Left the Point aux Pins at 4 p.m. with a fair wind which soon Brought us opposite to the Gros Cap after which we entered the great Lake Superior the Mother & mistress of the other Lakes; its water is so green and transparent that I am confidently told the bottom can be seen in 30 fathoms water.
On the Great Lakes the voyageurs regularly face wind, storms and fog.
The 4th ~ We were prevented from stirring by stormy weather — a cold raw day.
July 5th ~ Passed the Bay of Michipicoton where the Northwest Company have a trading post. This bay … shores run so parrallel that the head wind we had upon one side was aft-wind on the other side of it, for the space of 10 leagues. We made, by the men’s Compute, 24 leagues this day. [72 miles!!]
Lake Superior in the distance with a voyageur canoe turned upside down.
~ Next day we passed Tête a la Loutre where a collumn of Rock stands upon a lofty round mountain to the height of 10-12 feet perpendicular. About 12-15 leagues furthur on we found the entrance of the Pic River where there is a Trading Post of Mr. Coté, about half a mile from our encampment. This was the coldest night ever I felt at this time of year, and in the vicinity of our encampment there are 11 Crosses in memory of that number of men that are buried here most of whom perished last winter.
~ We keep our arms in good order ever since we parted from canoes being told that Indians are apt to attack a single canoe. The crews seldom have any arms of their own. At l’anse a la Bouteille met a canoe of Forsyth Richardson & Co., that had wintered in Nipigon alongside of the H.B. Company’s Traders, who did not make a single pack [bale of furs] for M Hudson, their cheif had frozen to death … seeking subsistence for himself and fellow sufferers. This Canoe was loaded with the same goods they took into the interior last autumn.
Inside the Grand Portage trading post fort
~ Next day we passed the Nipigon River … and saw two round mountains in the form of Sugar Loaves. After which we passed Bay noir, which is so deep the eye cannot see the land that terminates the bottom of it … passed close to Thunder Mountain, one of the highest; …one half of thunder Hill rises about 45 Degrees from the waters edge and is toped off by the other half of its height a perfect perpendicular. … it resembles an extensive citadel wall.
Another curious round mountain is upon an Island. … we paddled against a strong hard wind till we reached point au Pêre where we passed the night. Tradition says it had its name from a Père Jusuite who was murdered here. … Mr. McLeod and I shaved and shifted being the last night we shall sleep out, wind and weather permitting, this side of the grand portage.
~ Leaving Point au Pêre, we paddled 2 pipes [A pipe is a flexible unit of time — about every hour voyageurs stopped to smoke their pipes and rest for a few minutes.] and put to shore to give the men time to clean themselves while we breakfasted — this done a short pipe brought us to Pointe au Chapeaux around which we got a sight of the long wished for Grand Portage. The beach was covered with spectators to see us arrive, our canoe went well and the crew sung paddling songs in a vociferous manner.
In case you missed earlier posts:
- In Part 1, John Macdonell, age 25, signed a contract for 5 years as a clerk and left Lachine.
- In Part 2 and Part 3, his brigade worked their way upstream on the Ottawa and Mattawa Rivers to the continental divide.
- In Part 4, they whizzed downstream on the French River. Macdonell spent July at Grand Portage transacting the company’s business as a clerk.
On Aug. 5, 1793, he officially became a Northman, leaving with trade goods for his wintering post, and arrived there Oct. 8, northwest of Lake Winnipeg on the Qu’appelle River— an additional 52 portages. In 1797 he became a wintering partner, and for the next 15 years was stationed in Athabasca, Isle a la Crosse and Lesser Slave Lake. The rest of his journal includes those experiences.
Source:
“Five Fur Traders of the Northwest” edited by C.M. Gates. Minnesota Historical Society Press (St. Paul, Minnesota, 1965).
Macdonell’s diary is the second account of the five. John Macdonell’s journal of the entire voyage is included in “Five Fur Traders of the Northwest” (Minnesota Historical Society, 1965). This diary and another which continues his recollections through 1795 are owned by McGill University of Montreal, Quebec, Canada. There is a downloadable version.
- The featured image is “Canoe Party Around Campfire” by Francis Anne Hopkins, done in about 1870.
Final Thoughts
Read about the journey through the eyes of another newbie, Andre, in Book 1, “Waters Like the Sky”
Book 2, “Treacherous Waters” and
Book 3 “Uncharted Waters”
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